6 August -- Lake Nakuru (by Caroline)

Our first full day at Lake Nakuru National Park. We had game drives nine and ten. No two drives are ever the same even in the same park. Our wonderful guide, Justus, is very in tune to what we are interested in. With all five pairs of eyes and ears we located a distressed vervet monkey and found a leopard lounging below it in the base of two trees. Our second leopard sighting in two days! These beautiful cats are very elusive and I did not think we would even see one.

Lake Nakuru is famous for it’s Greater and Lesser Flamingoes. I am amazed at the sheer number of birds in the lake and the sound that emanates from a million birds. The cacophony sounds like distant waves crashing. We went to view the flamingoes this morning—our third time and a different experience because of the time of day and the light. Also on today’s radar was a rare black rhino sighting. We have seen many white rhinos here—so prehistoric looking! Lake Nakuru was designated as Kenya’s first rhino sanctuary. There are now over a hundred rhinos in this park.

I am enjoying watching Linda become quite the birder. She spotted an African Scops-Owl this evening and pointed out a gorgeous Lilac-Breasted Roller earlier. The Roller was not more than 15 feet from the car. Roger and I got some nice photos. I am enjoying shooting with Roger. As David put it, he and Linda are equipped with point and shoot birthday and baby cameras, so Roger and I have been photographing most of the game and birds. Our guide mentioned that most tourists who like to bird watch are usually older. I guess that makes us old! He meant not under about 35 years old, so maybe we are young to him? David also spotted a Long-Crested Eagle. It is hard to pick a favorite bird of the day with so many beautiful and unusual sightings every day. The White-Fronted Bee-Eater, Pin-Tailed Whydah and the Red-Cheeked Cordon-Bleu were highlights.

I have enjoyed our lodges immensely and the hospitality. I love the little things like having our beds turned down nightly and being greeted with a big “Jambo!” after a dusty safari and handed damp towels and a glass of freshly squeezed fruit juice. I love the big things like the variety of the all you can eat buffets, massage and evening entertainment. This lodge, Sarova Lion Hill Lodge, is located inside the park and has especially wonderful, spicy Indian food. There is a large Indian presence in East Africa and we have had Indian food available to us daily. Yum. We complimented the chef here.

We got a surprise at dinner tonight when the lights were dimmed and a dozen singers and dancers came out of the kitchen with torch and birthday cake in hand. They weaved their way through the dining room. What a festive celebration for someone we all thought. Well the performers landed at our table and the cake in front of me! I was totally confused and we were all laughing hard from the embarrassment. The cake said “Karibu Tena” which is Swahili for “Welcome Again”. I did a little dance with the knife, made a universal wish and blew out the candles. I think the staff picked our table because they genuinely liked us and we were at the lodge for a second night. Big fun.

Americans are not the most common tourists in East Africa, but as a group, are well- liked because we complain the least. The English and French are the worst we have been told. A smile, genuine interest in a new culture, thank you and common courtesy go a long way.